how to pack for a month in Europe

Gosh, doesn’t that title sound a bit pretentious?!

But, after three summers in a row of month-long jaunts across the pond, I feel I’ve FINALLY figured out the packing game.  (Not that I executed it perfectly this time, but at least there is hope for the future!)

Continue reading “how to pack for a month in Europe”

H/B/F 2017: Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum

Amsterdam is home to many fantastic museums, and it’s impossible to see them all in a week.  I saw the big three (the two mentioned here and the Stedelijk), as well as some smaller ones, such as the Bag and Purse Museum and the Amsterdam Museum.

We chose to hit the Van Gogh Museum on a Friday night when it was open late, and we were greeted with a party!  There was live music, vendors, food and drinks in the lobby.  We hadn’t had dinner yet, so we went ahead and enjoyed the scene with some snacks.

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The Van Gogh Museum began with a room full of his self-portraits, organized chronologically.  It was interesting to see how his art evolved over time and with his mental illness.  I didn’t realize the scope of his artistic ability, ranging from landscapes and self-portraits to Impressionist work, pieces with Chinese influence and even modern art.

On Saturday, to escape the heat, we heading again into Amsterdam to enjoy some air conditioning at the Rijksmuseum.

Inside, we focused only on the Dutch Golden Age, which is housed in a great gallery, designed specifically for these pieces:

We saw a still life by Pieter Claesz , a Haarlem boy known for his work with light and reflection.  I fell in love with his work in the ‘Slow Food’ exhibition at the Mauritshuis in The Hague.  For more about our trip there, click here.

This piece was on loan from Leiden, which is where I ran my half-marathon!

Along with Rembrandt, Johannes Vermeer is king of the Dutch Masters painters.  We specifically waited to visit the Rijksmuseum until Saturday as his painting, The Milkmaid, had just returned from being on loan to another museum. We visited a museum dedicated to him in Delft, which features reproductions of all his 34 paintings with detailed descriptions of his style and themes.

Below right is ‘Reading a Letter’ and second from right is ‘The Milkmaid.’

Jan Steen, who paints humorous scenes like Norman Rockwell, is another Dutch Master we saw in various museums during our trip.

Finally, here is Rembrandt’s self-portrait as Paul:

Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, hugely famous:

While I can’t say I loved EVERYTHING I saw, I can say that I have a much better understanding of the Dutch Golden Age and the artists who painted during that time period.  I learned to recognize some of the themes and techniques, such as still lifes, landscapes, use of light and textures and a departure from religious scenes.

As we only visited the single gallery (which took almost two hours!), we’ll just have to come back for the rest another time!

H/B/F 2017: Alkmaar cheese and Hoorn

Andrew and I made sure to visit the Alkmaar Cheese Market before leaving the Netherlands.  Historically, cheese was brought to this square, weighed and then sold.  Once a week, the town puts on a show and the process is described in detail, including young Dutch girls and boys dressed in traditional outfits selling hunks of cheese to all the watching tourists.

The town is also filled with stalls for market day, selling everything from Dutch novelties (like wooden shoes) and antiques to cheese, sausage and fried dough.

Once the cheese market closed, the square was filled with cafe tables and chairs for the surrounding eateries.  Of course, I chose the meal that featured local cheese!

After visiting Alkmaar, we jumped in the car to head to Hoorn, located on the northeastern side of the country on the Markermeer lake.  Along the way, Andrew stopped to photograph a roadside windmill:

Hoorn is home to the Westfries Museum, dedicated to Dutch history and life. I really enjoyed the variety of items on display, from paintings to room re-creations to a display on spices (re: DUTCH East India Company).

 

After grabbing a quick drink on the square, we took a walk around town to the water: